Lamanai – 11/26/06

…A face only a mother could love…

This is the famous trademark of the Mayan ruins of Lamanai. This site is about fifteen miles from us, set along a river and featuring a small, American-owned (of course) resort. We spent the afternoon walking around the ruins after church.
Much of the site is still under jungle cover, but the shape of the hills cannot be mistaken for anything but temples, palaces, and municipal structures. The biggest temples are fully excavated, however. The Temple of the Mask features a unique carving of a single, giant face – a feature not typically found on Mayan temples.

Walking around the site was fascinating because most of the trees and strange plants alongside the trail were labeled. A botanist’s dream come true. I know money doesn’t grow on trees, but did you know that horse balls do? The hand-painted sign proves it. And the “seeds” further emphasize the point. This sign is incredibly useful because it also features the Mayan word for cojones, so if we ever travel to the far South we’ll be able to converse with the locals.

On the way to the High Temple we passed a detour sign directing us to the Fig Tree. We decided to see what the big deal was about and stepped off the main trail. This thing was ginormous!

First, let me say that mosquitoes must love figs. I know this to be a scientific fact because near the giant fig tree we experienced what could only be described as pestilence. Maria loves the significance of fig trees, so she wanted us to take a picture of her at its base. I don’t really think you can disturb a mosquito nest because they spend most of their time flying by your ear and biting you in your sleep, but I’m guessing she found a big one. She could not stay still for even half a second for this picture. They swarmed her as if they were part mosquito, part Africanized honey bee. Consequently, all pictures of Maria and the fig tree look like this…

But, the adventurers that we are, being eaten alive would not stop us from continuing our trek. Well, most of us. Maria did ask for an ambulance, or to call 911. We had to remind her that a 911 call from Central America would not only be expensive, but the response time would be less than ideal…

The High Temple was creatively named. I bet you can’t guess how it came to be known as such. I could only describe it as something large, stone, old, and, yes – high. There are some steep steps leading partway up the temple, then some even steeper steps beyond that with a rope fixed to the middle of them to help you climb to the top. Once there, however, I couldn’t help but feel like I had a little bit of the Captain in me…

Melissa and Maria also got to show off their muscles at the top, with a stunning view of rainforest canopy and jungle growth as far as the eye can see with a river cutting through the middle of it all. I kept trying to picture what it was like with a Mayan city in its prime along the riverbank and the boat traffic coming and going from all the foreign traders. All that’s left now are mounds of stone and angry black howler monkeys. There was a particularly aggressive one in the tree closest to the temple that started screaming as we began our descent. Other monkeys returned its call from nearby, and their echoes through the trees, trails, and temples continued long after we left. I wish you could hear their call – it sounds more like a lion’s roar than a monkey’s scream and incredibly loud.

There were a couple other temples to conquer, but we plan on saving those for when our guests arrive from the states. We thought maybe next time we’ll just drive to Orange Walk and take the boat up the river to the landing at the site of the ruins – that way we’ll get a good jungle tour in as well.

Until then, it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas around here. Well, not really – but we have a small tree and two stockings to remind us of the season. Although we’ve been sweating recently, another “Norther” is coming this week so we should be able to wear long sleeves for a few days again.

So, I hope you are all enjoying your holiday season. It’s busy here – our Christmas program was moved up to the 8th, so this is a short school week with a lot of practicing while gearing up for semester exams at the same time. I can’t believe how fast time is flying by! I love and miss SO many of you, let me know how you’re doing!

Love,
Nathan